Swedish Lapland: in the realm of Europe's last wilderness

ICEHOTEL

My journey began in Kiruna where I was picked up by Mikael – sales director at undoubtedly the region's most notable hotel concept, ICEHOTEL. This was to be my second taste of overnighting in a hotel made of ice, but being that this is the original which was first opened in 1989, it's fair to say expectations were high. After all, nowadays some 30,000 guests experience a winter night at the world's first ICEHOTEL every year. Using giant ice blocks harvested from the nearby Torne river, the hotel is built from scratch every winter and is open from late December until early April. A fleeting masterpiece sculpted from ice and snow, It is a testament to human ingenuity and nature's artistry.

Tonight, I wasn't just a visitor, I was about to experience the unique thrill of sleeping on a bed of ice in a room with a constant temperature of -5 Celsius. Meticulously crafted, the walls, ceiling and even the bed frames were all works of art, adorned with intricate carvings that played with the soft, ambient lighting. The air, though crisp, held a surprising stillness, a quiet that seemed to amplify the magic of the place. The original ICEHOTEL houses Ice Rooms and Art Suites, while the adjacent ICEHOTEL 365 (a more recent but permanent creation offering year-round cold accommodation) also features Deluxe Suites.

I was lucky enough to enjoy this upgrade, the only category to feature a private heated bathroom and relaxation area including a sauna. It is easy to get carried away with the idea of staying in the "original" ICEHOTEL – the one which is rebuilt from ice every year. However, for a more elevated experience, it is hard to look past the Deluxe Suites, a juxtaposition of a warm, cosy relaxation area behind a domain of icy artistry – a delightful paradox and one that I was very grateful for as I winded down for the night. Here, I could retreat to warm up, sip on hot lingonberry juice and relax in the sauna before bedding down in warm clothing for a night to remember. It wasn't cold, surprisingly, thanks to the insulating layers and the warmth of the sleeping bag. Instead, there was a unique, almost primal connection to the elements, a feeling of being cocooned in nature's frozen embrace.

Arctic Retreat

By mid-January you'd usually expect to experience knee-deep snow and temperatures hovering around -20 degrees Celsius. While we did eventually experience the latter, the former had not yet arrived with its usual vigour – a generational anomaly as most would remark. Winter is the longest season at this latitude, and therefore high season for international visitors looking to experience its snowy wonderland. But, while the ICEHOTEL was undoubtedly an exceptional experience – and one I would highly recommend on any visit – it is somewhat of an outlier when compared to the typical Swedish Lapland experience people visit for. In search of a place much more akin to something typically associated with this region, next on my list was a remote cluster of log cabins beside a frozen river, where you're more likely to bump into a moose than a fellow human.

I was welcomed to Arctic Retreat by Graeme, an Australian expat who is well known in Swedish Lapland as the owner of this picturesque refuge, but also widely recognised as someone who has helped shape the landscape and cooperation of properties in the region. In fact, one of the stand-out attributes of this part of Sweden when compared to the rest of the Nordics is the willingness for local businesses to work together for mutual benefit rather than against each other in a race to the top. This is without doubt the single biggest factor in maintaining authenticity and a 'quality over quantity' approach to tourism, which is refreshing to see. Driving through endless forest lanes, past the village of Gunnarsbyn, the location of Arctic Retreat, overlooking a frozen river and snow-blanketed forests, was truly memorable.

Arctic Retreat prides itself on offering a real communal atmosphere. With just three cabins – Sun, Wind and Water – it's about as exclusive as you could hope for. Seeking likeminded travellers, the retreat attracts those who like to immerse themselves in the surrounding nature, sharing stories of their travels in the communal restaurant, which is more like a cosy living room. I had the choice between having dinner in the comfort of my cabin and sharing the evening with a couple from the US. In the true spirit of Arctic Retreat, I chose to spend it in the company of guests who were all too keen to share their experiences of travelling the Nordics. The food could almost have played second fiddle, but with the remarkably talented Emmanuel at the helm in the kitchen, it was simply too impressive to ignore. Dishes are carefully crafted using plenty of local ingredients – many harvested during the autumn – and the likes of reindeer carpaccio and locally sourced arctic char are just some of the highlights. The cabins themselves are as cosy as you'd like. Featuring a wood burning stove, comfortable lounge area, a mezzanine bedroom and a luxurious hot tub looking out towards the northern skies, it was everything I needed for a cosy and relaxing evening in the middle of the forest, after a day of snowmobiling the vast wilderness surrounds.

Treehotel

The following day was crisp and bright. Winter it seemed – certainly by Swedish standards – was finally arriving. After a filling breakfast of smoked trout, fruit juices and homemade waffles and about an hour journey by car, passing by the remote nearby village of Harads, I was eagerly anticipating one of Swedish Lapland's most iconic hotel concepts. In 2003, Kent and Britta Lindvall transformed a former nursing home into a guesthouse, but despite a promising start, long-term success was uncertain. Inspiration struck Kent while fishing: they would build unique rooms in the adjacent forest, not on the ground, but nestled among the trees. Envisioning a collaboration with renowned architects, he imagined spectacular, eye-catching designs that would draw visitors from across the globe. Fast forward to 2010, the first four treehouses were opened, and by 2013 there were six – The Cabin, Mirrorcube, Dragonfly, UFO, Blue Cone and Bird's Nest. Later the 7th Room and most recently the Biosphere were added – all distinct, all marvels of architecture. I was particularly impressed by the Biosphere, a spherical treehouse surrounded by 340 protruding bird houses, allowing guests to wake up to a chorus of songs by the resident birds. Nearby to all eight treehouses is the original guesthouse which hosts meals and a nice communal area where guests can mingle.

It might be hard to imagine amidst the winter snow, but Treehotel is a popular destination year-round. In the summer, guests flock here for woodland hikes, canoeing and fishing on the Lule River. But for now, winter activities take centre stage: snowshoeing, ice fishing, snowmobiling, husky sledding and cross-country skiing. A short hour's drive away, we visited a small kennel run by Jeremias and Hannah. They lovingly raise and train their own pack of Alaskan huskies, using them for private sledding tours. Because they handle everything themselves, they have a deep personal connection with each dog, having raised them from puppies. It's no wonder, then, that my husky sledding experience was perfectly tailored to my preferences, and the dogs were exceptionally well-trained. As darkness fell, we embarked on a picturesque journey, gliding across a frozen lake and winding through a thick, snow-laden forest accompanied by the joyful barks of the huskies.

Arctic Bath

Opened in late 2019, Arctic Bath offers a truly special experience. But as we arrived, my eyes were immediately drawn to its unusual design. Inspired by the region's historic timber-floating era – for generations, the Lule River and its tributaries served as crucial transportation routes for timber, a long-held tradition in the north – the main circular building, floating gracefully on the Lule River, echoes the image of logs caught in the rapids—a familiar sight for those who worked the timber routes of the past. While the property itself is stunning and unique in its design, what truly sets it apart is the warm, personal touch. It avoids the impersonal feel of a typical hotel, instead fostering a welcoming and intimate atmosphere. The staff are exceptional, consistently going above and beyond for their guests. Their willingness to go out of their way, such as arranging a delicious lunch from local favourite Svantes, demonstrates their commitment to ensuring every stay is memorable.

In summer, I'd seen photos of the hotel floating serenely on the river. Now, a pristine sheet of ice embraced it, transforming the whole scene into a magical winter wonderland. Stepping out, the crisp air nipped at my cheeks, but the view was breathtaking. I headed straight for the heart of the hotel – the open-air cold bath. The thought of plunging into the icy water was both daunting and exhilarating, especially knowing the steaming hot tubs and saunas were just steps away. The contrast was incredible – the invigorating shock of the cold followed by the soothing warmth. Though there was no time to treat myself to a massage in one of the treatment rooms, they offered all sorts of therapies, from massages to detoxifying treatments, surely a perfect way to unwind after the bracing cold. When it comes to accommodation, the striking Land, Water and Suite cabins sit seemingly suspended between earth and sky, giving the impression that you are floating on the river.

My journey through Swedish Lapland revealed a region far more complex and captivating than the often-simplistic image conjured by the name "Lapland." It's a place where ancient traditions intertwine with innovative design, where the raw power of nature meets the warmth of human connection. Sustainability isn't just a buzzword either, but a way of life, and present in all of my visits. And ultimately, it's a place that proves that the true magic of Lapland, as far as Sweden is concerned, lies not in mythical figures, but in the breathtaking landscapes, the unique experiences, and the genuine passion of the people who call this extraordinary place home. So, while everyone else is busy searching for Santa and his elves, I'll be here, discovering the soul of Lapland, one snow-dusted tree and starlit night at a time.