As a specialist in Latin America, I've been fortunate enough to explore many destinations in the region. However, though it does share certain similarities with its Latin neighbours further south, Costa Rica stands out for its exceptional blend of natural beauty, warm hospitality and abundant wildlife. From the misty heights of cloud forests to the pristine sands of turtle nesting beaches, it offers a diverse range of experiences.
While I visited during the rainy season in September, I was pleasantly surprised by the frequent bursts of sunshine and the incredible wildlife encounters. The discounted rates were an added bonus! Thanks to British Airways' direct route from London, reaching Costa Rica is more simple than one may think. The country's excellent infrastructure also makes it a breeze to explore.
To kick off my trip, I spent a night in San Jose, the bustling capital. Despite its reputation for urban development, the city boasts a vibrant music scene and charming colonial architecture. I highly recommend taking the time to discover its hidden corners.
San José's historic Grand Boulevard
Gran Hotel Costa Rica
The following day, I embarked on a scenic drive towards Monteverde, winding through the central valley's lush landscapes. The road gradually ascended, leading me into the misty cloud forest. I settled into the charming Trapp Family Hotel, a haven of hospitality with its cozy wood-panelled rooms offering breathtaking views of the surrounding greenery.
As the closest accommodation to the Monteverde Forest Reserve, the hotel was the ideal base for exploring the park. Without delay, I set off on a short walk to the entrance, where helpful staff provided me with a map and directions. Following the well-marked trails, I was soon captivated by the sight of rainbows dancing amidst the misty clouds.
The forest was a treasure trove of biodiversity, teeming with vibrant mosses, epiphytes resembling palm trees, and gnarled liana vines. I was fortunate to encounter several fascinating creatures, including a camouflaged praying mantis and an agouti, a large rodent resembling a guinea pig. However, the hummingbirds stole the show. Watching their iridescent feathers flitting among the flowers in the café garden was the perfect reward for a day of hiking, especially when accompanied by a delicious coffee and cake.
Another highlight of my Monteverde experience was the Hanging Bridges and Sky Walk tour. The elevated walkways offered a unique perspective of the forest canopy and led to enchanting butterfly and orchid houses. While rain had dampened my initial visit, I was fortunate to return the next morning under a clear blue sky.
Quetzal, Monteverde
Hanging Bridges in Monteverde Cloud Forest
Scenery in Monteverde Cloud Forest
I then embarked on a journey eastward to Tortuguero, the renowned 'Land of the Turtles.' Eager to encounter these iconic creatures, I ventured to the beach after sunset to witness their nightly ritual. With hushed anticipation, I observed three massive sea turtles emerge from the waves, carefully digging their nests and laying hundreds of eggs.
My accommodations at the Tortuga Lodge & Gardens provided a tranquil retreat within the forest along a picturesque river. The lodge's serene ambiance and proximity to the main park, accessible by a boat ride, made it the ideal base for exploring the region. I spent my days kayaking through the lush waterways, encountering a diverse array of wildlife, from playful monkeys to slow-moving sloths and vibrant toucans. Beyond the natural wonders, Tortuguero village offered a charming glimpse into local culture, with its vibrant craft stalls and inviting tourist bars.
Jungle excursion by boat from Tortuga Lodge & Gardens
Turtle in Tortuguero National Park
My next stop, Arenal, took me back to the heart of Costa Rica. This quaint town is overshadowed by the volcano which shares its name, last erupting in 1968, decimating the nearby village of Tabacon. Fortunately, it's been dormant ever since, creating a tranquil atmosphere, especially in the geothermal mineral spa-hotels. I recommend a stay at the Amor Arenal, where the small jungle cabins (called casitas) are designed to provide a luxurious and comfortable stay, with private plunge pools and spacious terraces. There are adventures aplenty here, I highly recommend exploring the rainforest, trying ziplining and going whitewater rafting.
There are plenty of opportunities to try rafting in Costa Rica
Squirrel monkey near Arenal volcano
Lake Arenal with Arenal volcano in background
After leaving Arenal, I headed to the Pacific Coast to the vast Manuel Antonio National Park. Our recommended accommodation – Arenas del Mar – is nestled in the forest with breathtaking ocean views, surrounded by miles of secluded rainforest. It's a boutique beachfront property that has the perfect blend of tranquility and accessibility. Nearby, Manuel Antonio National Park delighted me with its abundant wildlife. Within hours, I'd encountered red land crabs, sloths, and even a mother sloth gracefully climbing a tree with her young. A highlight of my trip was a catamaran excursion that brought me face-to-face with three majestic humpback whales.
Beach in Manuel Antonio National Park
Toucan, spotted in Manuel Antonio National Park