Few names in travel carry the same weight of romance and elegance as the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. Recently, I had the privilege of experiencing this iconic train, beginning in Venice and ending in Paris. Here’s a first-hand look at what it’s really like to travel aboard the world’s most famous train.
Murano glass hanging opposite Museo del Vetro
Murano
My trip began as I arrived in Venice in the late morning, whisked away by water taxi, bound for Murano – Venice’s quieter sister island. Known globally as the home of glassmaking since the 13th century, Murano has a character all of its own. Its furnaces once produced chandeliers for kings and mirrors for palaces, and the tradition continues today with master artisans creating dazzling works of art in hidden workshops. After several previous stays in central Venice, I decided to make Murano my base this time, checking into the NH Collection Murano Villa, a converted glass factory. Its sleek modern interiors cleverly retain the island’s industrial history, giving it a contemporary, yet crucially, authentic feel.
Life on Murano runs at a gentler pace than Venice itself. The canals are hushed, the crowds fewer, and yet the heart of Venice is only minutes away by vaporetto. That afternoon, I returned to the main island for an aperitivo at the lagoon-front Hotel Metropole, a place steeped in Venetian heritage. Family-owned since its opening, the hotel is a treasure trove of antiques and artwork collected over centuries, echoing Venice’s role as a hub of the Silk Road.
Dinner was back in Murano, where I tucked into Risi e Bisi – a traditional Venetian dish of rice and peas – at a charming local trattoria. A twilight stroll along the canals ended the evening, as anticipation bubbled for what was to come the next day: stepping aboard the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.
The terrace at NH Collection Venezia Murano Villa
Hotel Metropole
The morning began with a water taxi transfer to Venice Santa Lucia station, where excitement hung in the air. Porters bustled, stewards greeted guests, and the gleaming blue-and-gold carriages stretched elegantly along the platform. The moment I stepped aboard truly felt like entering another era – the Golden Age of Travel. Inside, the train is a marvel. Gleaming wood panelling, Lalique glass and plush upholstery reflect the glamour of the 1920s and 1930s. My steward welcomed me to my suite with champagne and canapés before leaving me to settle in.
After a quick wander through the bar car and the three uniquely styled dining cars, I took my seat for a three-course lunch of scallops, sole and caramel French toast, accompanied by a crisp white wine from Trentino-Alto Adige – the very landscapes sweeping past the window. The afternoon unfolded with tea served in my suite as we glided through changing scenery: snow-dusted peaks of the Dolomites gave way to rolling vineyards and valleys.
Lunch time in the dining car
The on board décor reflects the Golden Age of Travel
As the sun dipped behind the mountains, the mood gently shifted. Guests dressed in evening attire, and the bar car came alive with clinking glasses, live piano music and lively conversation – it was like stepping straight into a Fitzgerald novel! Dinner was a spectacle in itself. I opted for the second sitting and savoured tuna carpaccio, beef fillet, hazelnut chocolate tart and a fine cheese selection. Each dish was crafted to perfection, matched with wines that complemented the journey.
Later, the bar car buzzed with energy as bartenders mixed cocktails and guests danced to the pianist’s tunes. The spirit of the roaring twenties lingered well past midnight. Returning to my suite, I found it transformed: my plush sofa converted into a supremely comfortable double bed.
Ready for an evening in the bar car
Dining on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express
Morning light spilled over the French countryside as I awoke, greeted with a breakfast in bed of fresh pastries, fruit and coffee. The final stretch of the journey carried us towards Paris, and one last indulgence awaited: a brunch of scrambled eggs with caviar, langoustine ravioli, and tarte tatin in the L’Oriental dining car.
As we pulled into Paris Gare de l’Est, a brass band struck up a triumphant tune on the platform, a fittingly grand farewell. We disembarked with a mixture of reluctance and gratitude, thanking the remarkable staff who had made the journey so special. By mid-afternoon, I was aboard the Eurostar to London, still replaying every moment of what had truly been the trip of a lifetime.