On my sixth encounter with Venice, I wondered whether there was much more to discover. Yet, this is a city that never ceases to amaze with its charming canals, elegant palaces, hidden alleyways and grand squares. How could I tire of it? Having previously experienced La Serenissima in the height of summer and in late autumn, I was keen to see how different Venice could be in spring. In recent years, the city has struggled with the sheer volume of visitors, but on a Monday morning in early March, without the dense crowds of summer, I navigated the narrow, cobbled streets like a true Italian, taking in its age-old beauty: a Venice of yesteryear.
The air still had the cool chill of winter, but a cloudless sky with the canals shimmering in the sunshine displayed the city in all its glory. I began my day in Piazzale Roma and strolled through the peaceful residential neighbourhoods of Santa Croce and Dorsoduro. I soon found myself at the Accademia bridge, one of the four bridges that stretch across the famous Grand Canal.
With an hour before my timed entrance to the Accademia gallery, I enjoyed a classic Italian breakfast: brioche alla crema and una spremuta (custard cream croissant and freshly squeezed orange juice) and took the opportunity to wander around Dorsoduro – my favourite part of the city. Artsy and chic, it boasts the very best of Venetian style and sophistication. The Accademia art gallery is really something that must be experienced first-hand and is a must-visit for anyone interested in Renaissance art and history. Vasari’s Venetian masterpiece, a reconstructed renaissance ceiling, was the highlight here.
Strolling among the canals
Accademia Gallery
View from the water
I then hopped on a water bus to the nearby island of Murano. After several previous stays in the centre of Venice, I opted to stay at the NH Collection Murano in order to explore Venice’s quieter, smaller sister. Famed for world-class glass manufacturing, Murano is a great spot for second-timers or those looking for a more peaceful base from which to explore Venice. The hotel itself is a converted glass factory which retains many of its original features, creating a unique blend of modernity fused with the industrial history of the island.
Later that evening I ventured back to Venice for an aperitivo at the fabulous Hotel Metropole on the lagoon front. With its romantic and oriental style – drawing inspiration from Venice's prominence on the Silk Road and the trade which came through from the East – the hotel pairs perfectly with a journey on the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express. The bar and dining facilities are fantastic, and the hotel boasts a courtyard garden – a real rarity in Venice. As one of the only true remaining family-owned properties in Venice, it retains an intimate and boutique atmosphere; I was in awe of all the small touches and beautiful decor.
I finished the day with a classic Venetian dinner of baccala mantecato and fritto misto (creamed cod and mixed fried seafood) at a local trattoria in Murano before an early night, ready for the main event the following day: the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express.
After a light breakfast I was collected by water taxi and swiftly escorted by a Belmond representative to Venice Santa Lucia station to await embarkation. There was a real sense of excitement in the air as I received my boarding pass and porters began to organise my luggage. I made my way down the platform to my carriage where I was greeted by my two stewards for the journey. As I stepped aboard, I felt as if I’d been transported back in time – the train is truly a magnificent sight to behold. All of the intricate furnishings, polished wooden panelling and plush fabrics pay homage to a bygone era: the Golden Age of Travel.
While I settled into my suite cabin with canapés and a glass of champagne, my steward explained the journey ahead and the history of the train. It was difficult not to be swept up in the magic of this experience, as I began to explore the luxurious bar car and three dining cars, each with a different style of decor. I sat down for a delicious three-course lunch of scallops, sole, and caramel French toast, paired with an Italian wine from Trentino Alto-Adige, the very region we were passing through. I spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in my suite with afternoon tea, watching the contrasting spring scenery of sweeping vineyards and snow-capped mountain tops.
Ready to board Europe's most luxurious train
Starting the journey in style
As the sun set over the glorious Dolomite mountain range, I dressed in elegant evening attire, ready for a pre-dinner cocktail in the bar car, where the evening was now in full swing and the ambience one of utmost glamour and sophistication. Opting for the second dinner sitting, the food and service was exceptional once again: tuna carpaccio to start, beef fillet for main, followed by a selection of cheeses and a hazelnut chocolate tart to finish. Our night was not yet over, as the bartenders were superb as we enjoyed drinks in the bar car into the early hours of the morning while dancing alongside the grand piano in true roaring 20s style. When I finally retired to my suite, the sofas of the daytime had been turned into a comfortable bed for the night.
The Restaurant Car
Delicious scallops
The Bar Car
I awoke to the sun shining over the French countryside as a breakfast of fresh pastries and fruit was served to me in bed. Whilst soaking up the last of the scenery, my stewards advised on our arrival time into Paris, and I prepared to disembark. We enjoyed one final meal in the L’Oriental dining car: a decadent brunch of scrambled eggs and caviar, langoustine ravioli and tarte tatin.
A brass band bid us farewell as we thanked the fantastic staff that had taken such great care of us, and we hopped in a taxi and headed for Gare du Nord station. By mid-afternoon we were comfortably aboard the Eurostar bound for London, reflecting on an unforgettable trip of a lifetime.